The 40 minute perm that lasted 3 days and changed my approach

Six months ago I had a client ask for a classic perm and I was still using the same timing chart from beauty school. I set the timer for 20 minutes like always and it came out barely curled. She was nice about it but I could tell she was disappointed. So I tried a different brand with a longer processing window, kept checking the curl every 5 minutes after the 30 mark, and finally pulled it at 40 when the rods looked right. That perm held for a good 5 months on her. Now I never trust the clock alone, I do test curls on every single perm and adjust based on hair porosity. Has anyone else had a product or method they swore by that just failed them in a real chair situation?

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